For beginners, the jersey is the fabric with which it makes the t-shirt. It belongs to the family of the “cracks” that are actually knitted textile and non woven. Those who are knitting know, jersey is a base with a side location point and a side upside down. On the place, we see a small “v”. On the other side, we see small “bridges”. This mode of manufacturing makes this elastic and flexible textile (see a little slippery). Sometimes it scares the debutantes, he’s very comfortable and pleasant to wear. So much learn to know and to work it!
Choose His Jersey
For a first experience, I advise you to choose a jersey cotton (summer) or wool (winter) of medium thickness to thick. The very fine jersey tend to rolled and this can complicate its approach when starting.
The Meaning of The Jersey
And Yes, the jersey has a sense… It’s not like the canvas, it cannot be used in line or against wire but necessarily in line parallel to the edge. Why? And because being knitted, it does not have the same elasticity in both directions. (I advise never to cut the fabric in the wire but in case of need, it will be assumed that sometimes we tinker a little…)Not respecting this rule, you could find yourself with a handle or a too tight wrist!
So: fold your fabric place against place (to draw inside) and get an edge with the other edge. Follow line by asking your pattern pieces. Place all of your pieces with the top on the same side.
If your jersey glide to the point of not wisely stay in place on your table, fix them edges on the table using a sticky paper type masking tape.
Transfer his boss on the jersey
As a general rule, to remember not to pull on the jersey working. Whether by is pinning the paper pattern, drawing or in the spicy. If you stretch your fabric, you turn it on. Once you remove your pins to detach your paper, the tension will be released and the fabric will resume its normal elasticity, changing thus the shape of what you have drawn. It is true that the jersey can be slippery and that pinning stage may seem tedious. But, remember that sewing is relaxing. There is no point to rush. Enjoy more of that time working at home. And the jersey will be more accommodating if you treat it gently.
If you want to draw on the jersey, physicscat advises you use a “soft” tool, which is easier to work. Those who design know that there is hard, dry gray crayons and other tender and fatty. Well, it’s a bit the same with tailor marking tools. You’ll see over time that some tailor pencils are softer and other, drier. Regarding me, I use as much as possible the old flat SOAP thing and I prefer small features to the big lines suddenly. For a sweep of marking tools, it’s here!
The Machine And The Jersey
Of course, it is not a lot of research to learn that ‘the machine’ to sew the Jersey, it’s the overlock. Why? Because itbecause of the elastic seams, that it stings, neaten and shaves in one action. But it is quite possible to sew the Jersey with a simple sewing machine!
On the other hand, it is essential to bringneedle to sew special “jersey” or “stretch” . These needles have a more round tip (invisible to the naked eye). Their round tip allows to slide between the fibres without hurting. You will find needles of different thicknesses. For a fine jersey, one needle 70 or 75 will be perfect. And a needle 80 to 90 will suit for a fleece or a thicker mesh.
For purists, there are knit foot or feet carriers. They offer the advantage of drag on the fabric without extending. So far, I still managed with a standard foot. But well, I’ll try others, silly story do not die
Neaten The Jersey
The jersey does not fray. It is not necessary to neaten up him.
P Master of Jersey
As for any other textile, it starts with pin or squeeze the pieces for then, poking them in the machine. But still keeping the same rule in mind: do not pull on the fabric. The fabric will go at its own pace in the machine. He must just guide it leaving him to go alone. If you pull on the jersey in the spicy, the point of couture will set the voltage emitted on the jersey in the place of the sting. On the other hand, the rest of the jersey will keep its normal elasticity. The seams will give an effect of little aesthetic yawn…
Choose a point to Pique Jersey
See the operating instructions for your machine. Maybe there’s a point for elastic fabrics. Otherwise, don’t panic!
For the seams which must not be elastic (sides, shoulders,…), a straight stitch too long or too short will do the trick: 2.5 mm.
For seams that must remain elastic (hems, neck,…), a very slight zigzag will suit: 2.5 mm long and 1 mm wide.
Overlock points or stretch are indicated for elastic fabrics but I never use them… Think that these points have a width when you use them.
A single ply and a shot:
– either at the point mentioned above zig – zag
– either with a needle double (twin). Place the coil and a can of the same wire at the top of the machine. (If you only have a single display to coil, overlay the bobbin on the bobbin. Please read your instructions for threading of the son. The idea is that the son must be twisting the least possible. Select regular straight stitch. Poke at reduced speed. Once the shot is completed, play it again. If your sewing blisters too, slightly decrease the tension of wire. If some points of failures, use rather a needle “stretch” than “jersey” and decrease the length of the point.
Sew A Fabric No Elastic On The Jersey
For example, to prick a bias… Stitch all by placing cotton on top and jersey underneath. So the rule is: the stable fabric on top, elastic tissue below, as much as possible.
An Extra Tip
If the edges of your pieces in jersey trailer to a point that it becomes uncomfortable for sewing, bring you a water soluble iron roller type: soluvlies or soluweb. This will allow you to attach a strip of this interfacing along the edges in order to stiffen them. The interfacing will disappear in the first wash.