What Is The Active Rest In Climbing

Just go down a road and managed to do it with just a drop.
Is the point of encadenar and needs rest to take another “get” to climb without falling.
What do you believe will be the best way to descanar?
What you can do and for how long?
These are key questions you should ask and answer the best way to up their limits in climbing.
The active rest is the solution.
The active rest is that rest between the process in which a keeps doing some low intensity exercise and aerobic power to recover preference.
A study with climbers (Effects of Active Recovery on Lactate Concentration, Heart Rate, and RPE in Climbing -Draper, Bird, Coleman and Hodgson 2006) compares two groups of climbers who performed an 8b (7b Fr) of 20 meters and wanted to rest 20 minutes between each attempt with a sleeping bag via ITYPEAUTO.
The first group simply sat and rested without doing anything (passive home).
The second group used lightly an exercise bike during your home (home).
The evidence showed that the climbers with active rest at the end of the rest had lactic acid concentrations much lower than those who did nothing during your rest.
Another interesting study was what added passive and active home massage which showed that a home with active massage improved even more levels of lactic acid.
This makes it clear that it is much better an active rest that a liability.
In practice it means the better after going down a road would be a walk of 10 to 15 minutes to return to try the climb again.
How much should be home?
Another key point is how much should be home.
The recovery of phosphocreatine (maximum strength) is approximately 90% of home, and three minutes already recovered about 98%.
So the minute we could try resting between boulders of low intensity (compared to the maximum of the athlete) and 3 minutes we could try an over the limit.
On the other hand, when the time is “over the top” is a “it depends”.
If it’s a cold day, it shouldn’t be more than 10 to 15 minutes, because the vasoconstriction of the cold makes our muscles longer irrigate faster.
On an overcast day could be up to a maximum of 20 to 25 minutes.
Spend this time is desaquecer, and therefore, lose what you gained by heating.
In short: the ideal to rest is to remain active between homes and pillows as we apply a mild muscle massage.